On this side we show improvements done by other Hanse 370 owners. If you like to have your pictures shown on this page please mail them to me on marco@cdg.nu. Please also include a text/description that you want to go with the picture. As there are probably people who like to know more about what you have done I suggest that you also share your e-mail information.

About file nameing: firstname_lastname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_christensen_01.jpg) alternatively myhansenickname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_01.jpg

1. Starboard Lazarette, hull side: two additional shelfes was constructed, glassed in and then painted. Allows significantly better use of this large space.

2. Starboard Lazarette, cockpit side: a 1" x 4" piece of wood was glassed in (just below the lazarette opening) and painted. Then line holders were attached. Allows neat storage of  docklines, spinnaker sheets, extra halyard, etc.

3. Edson Cockpit Table (closed and stored). Made of starboard. Heavy, solid and no maintenance. Easy to stores or erect. I've had teak tables in the past but wanted to avoid the maintenance.

4. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves closed).

5. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves open).

6. Drink/Binoc Holder. (See #7,8 for mounting clamps.) Also made of starboard. Not as heavily made as I would like but it does the job. I like the way the two end holders allow for a mug with a handle.

7 & 8. Raymarine MFD (Multi Function Display). Mounted using a unique system designed by my electronics installer that allows the display to swivel about 55 degrees either left or right (to allow viewing from every helm position) and to tilt up or down. Also shows small storage area created in binnacle where Simrad multi had originally been installed.

9. Raymarine 7000 Autopilot Display.Port side. Also shows winch handle holder for easy reach for genoa trimmer.

10.Winch Handle Holder (starboard).

11. Simrad Wind & Multi Displays.  Mounted on starboard bulkhead (see #12) to be visable to all.

12. Simrad Displays plus Line holders. Starboard bulkhead. Line holders are Beneteau product. I replace the shock cord annually since it deteriorates in the sun. I've used these for 8 years and they work well to keep lines in place and readily accessible. When sailing (after raising the main) I remove the mainsheet (black with white fleck) from the line holder, take 4 wraps around the winch and open the main sheet clamp. In this way, the main sheet is immediately available for required adjustments.

13. Line holder Buttons (close up).  Starboard.
 

14. Custom Companionway Doors (closed). Screens with acrylic inserts (shown). I re-screened this year and used a heavy duty screening recommended for homes which have pets. At the beginning of every season I remove the heavy acrylic drop board that was original equipment and replace with these doors. They remain in place until I haul Legacy in October.

15. Custom Companion Doors (open).
 

16. Bimini. Made of the same Sunbrella like material that my sail drop was made of. Well constructed with stainless. This bimini was not made to fold. When we race I pull the pins supporting the cross bars on the right and left side, compress the frame and wrap a few bungy cords around it to hold it in place. If I did it again I would have one built which could fold.

17. Dodger. Non-folding. The center clear section unzips for more airflow. Clear plastic wing inserts are available for the left and right. Also well made with stainless tubing.

18. Harken 46ST Classic. Added port and starboard. Needed to handle the kevlar 155 genoa that we fly under 10K.

19. Garhauer Adjustable genoa Blocks.  Added this season.  They make a significant difference especially if you race.  Garhauer equipment is very well made. Heavy duty and long lasting.  Not as "sophisticated" as Harken but considerably less expensive. Great customer service.

20. Garhauer Mainsheet Block.  Added for additional purchase on the main sheet.  Simple, excellent addition.

21. Harken traveler Blocks.  Added for additional purchase on the traveler.  Simple, excellent addition.

22. Amsteel line with Block on Backstay.  Again, increased purchase.  Another simple, excellent addition.




 

23. New rub rail and Harken MK IV Furler, Expandable Whisker Pole, Pole Chocks.  Furler added this spring as a result of damaged forestay.  Decide to upgrade furler at same time that we were replacing forestay.  Excellent decision.  Much less windage, easier furling.

I added the rub rail about four years ago. It's a solid profile. Very hard. Comes with screw holes drilled about every 4 inches (100 mm) for easy placement and installation. Great addition. 

24.  Harken Mk IV (closeup).

01. Modified Calira Panel with Philippi Battery Monitor incl. Tank Monitor

02. HA Genoa tracks

03. Starboard locker modified to additional cabin (dual usage)

04. 12" Simrad NX45 Plotter on modified steering column and Composit 150cm Wheel

05. Coffee Bar

06. Coffee Bar

07. Harken under deck Furler with new anchor arm also for gennaker / Code 0

08. Instruments above companion way

 01. Protection for the Navigation Seat. It is simple hood over the upholstery

 02. Extension of the Würth Panel for a remote Charger controller and a Battery controller.
I have also added conventional tank gauges as the ones used for the Würth panel are crap

03. Organizing the anchor locker. It is a simple closed cell non water absorbent PVC sheet (Forex ), with a ring holder for the spare gas bottle. This prevents dock lines or the anchor buoy to fall into the chain storage.

01. Lock of new plate

02. Open plate looking inwards

03. Final state with new arrangement

Nickname on MyHanse: SamsonII
Boat name: SamsonII
Modell: Hanse 370e 2006 #41
Location: Nærsnes, Norway
Contact: Click here!

I have copied the backstay setup presented by Marco on this excellent page. I took som pictuers of the process. First I made a dummy rig to make all the measurements. I got the numbers from Marco, but wanted to do an extra check. I did som testing on the boat of the setup to see how much movement the upper block would have. Result was approx. 120 mm.

01. Max and min tension marked at the upper bloc kon the rig.

02. I pulled max to see how much movement the setup would give me.

03. The rig in my garden! (cheap rope used for testing)

04. Minimum tension

05. Maximum tension

The splicing of the block-end of the ropes were done at home. The other ends in the boat. I used a brummel lock splice. I followed  the instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WW7Qvg3VjI  I quickly realized that dyneema is hard to cut. So I have now purchased this fine tool from D-Splicer: https://d-splicer.com/d-16-scissors-2/

Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty
Boat name: Zanzibar
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Contact: Click here!

Nickname on MyHanse: CaraMia
Boat name: Cara Mia
Modell: Hanse 370
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
Contact: Click here!

I started to pour water on the floor to find the right levels and see how much spackle it would take. With 6 liters of water the level was horizontal so with 7 liters of spackle I got some slope.

Then I grinded the floor with sandpaper and washed it with acetone. After that I made the 2 long wooden wedges to use as templates for the spackle. I laid the wedges as far apart as possible and spackled the area between the wedges. When the spackle had stiffened, I removed the wedges and filled the gutters that remained.

On the advice of Nils Malmgren AB I used their epoxyspackle NM Elastic 705. Then I made a paper template that I gave to Marindesign AB, who manufactured the Flexiteek-carpet.  Now it just remains to glue it.

Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty
Boat name: Bäsk
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Contact: Click here!

We like to show you pictures of improvements we made on our 370e, formerly known as S/Y Hutschlange, now named as S/Y BÄSK.

S/Y Hutschlange was a racer / cruiser with an emphasis on racer. Our goal was from the beginning to mostly family sailing so we had a few things to-do on the list. The first thing we did was to have a RMC Swingthruster fitted and a bathing platform/cassette ladder á la S/Y Älva. We have never regretted these installations 

In In theses two picture you can see that we had three teak made for the aft deck and the anchor arm was extended to be able to turn all the way up to the push pit. It then had to be reinforced and provided with support legs so that the pull can be pulled off when it is sitting fairly hard.

You take what you find. Using various materials to put some weight on the glued teak pieces on the aft deck, se also previous picture for the result.

When we are a quite a few people onboard, we needed a real big cockpit table.

We drew plans for one and had a carpentry company build it. The brackets in the pedestal come from Hjertmans and the leg from Ikea.

Pro: Nice, plenty of space, just fits in the port cabin. Con: Quite heavy

The table fully open

The tachometer started early to often omit display. I got Albin Motor to get a new one, Italian, which Yanmar guaranteed. The old one had counted 628 hours, so I made a small pulse generator that had to run 628 hours connected to the new one, so we got the right display for the future.

We also took the opportunity to replace the plastic front on the engine panel - looks like new!

In 2015 we decided to change all outer textiles and ordered from Kapell & Annat everything in dark, dark blue color. We order a new sprayhood, cockpit tent, lazybag (in one piece, without loose mast part) and a pedestal cap.

After an involuntary gybe where I almost ripped my arm off we decided to install a boom break.

We talked about my problem with installing 230V to the front cabin. The picture shows what it looks like behind the port wardrobe in the front cabin.
There are many screws to remove, do not forget the hinges, but then you can pull out the entire closet and put in the bin. Note that the "ceiling" remains - it is not part of the closet.

Ventilation of the refrigeration compressor is a recurring topic on myhanse.com. I have, so far, only put grilles in the cupboard and in the door.

Would think that there will be fan-driven ventilation before the next season, and possibly new supply cables (just read about someone who got a voltage drop due to irritated cables) with good area.

We took the opportunity to replace the Simrad DS34 with a B&G Vulcan 9 and then we needed to widen the pedestal boat a bit to fit a standard Navpod. The result was really good.

We also replaced the external GPS antenna with a B&G ZT 100 that contains both a GPS receiver and a compass, so we have good redundancy there now.

One problem remains:
The old log sensor worked poorly and I failed to get an equivalent that worked. We ended up buying an Airmar sensor with NMEA 2000 connection. Now it turns out that some instruments refuse to read speed from this sensor, despite several types of reset. If I do not succeed during the season, I may have to replace some IS12 instruments with B&G Triton.

Last summer (2009) we had a grounding which was largely due to poor seamanship - I trusted the plotter when I navigated fine among groats, and then the fix point disappeared! It had happened quite often so I should not have been exposed to this risk. Anyway, we narrowed at a maximum of 3 knots but at a 45 degree angle when I steered away from the ground (that I almost managed to do).

No leakage and no visible damage inside. We lifted and inspected and saw that it was mainly the joint between steel and lead that was beaten.

Svedea and Orust Yacht Service have done a good job that ended with a brand new lead keel. We took the opportunity to install a Keel Pro as extra security in the future.

The previous owner of my boat did some good offshore racing and faced a lot of problems with different blocks that didn’t withstand the forces. This included the mast base blocks. Those were all replaced with Harken blocks, except for the main halyard where no big block with 6 mm pin could be found. He took a Lewmar block that could fit with some spacers. This “solution” is described in old threads of MyHanse Forum.

I wanted to get rid of that weak Lewmar block and also upgrade some other mast base blocks to bigger ones. To do that I needed 8 mm pins to fit. In order to get 8 mm holes I needed bigger bolts, 14 mm instead of 12 mm.

What I did was:
1) I removed the mast base plate. On my boat there are nuts on the other side of the 6 machine screws, so I had to remove the inner ceiling. Be careful when you lever the base plate. The Sikaflex makes it sit very tight and you need quite some force to get it lose.

2) I drilled all the bolt holes up to 14 mm, plus some margin.

3) I manufactured new 14 mm bolts with 8 mm hole.

4) When I re-attached the base plate I secured that no Sikaflex touched the lower part of the bolts – I actually put some grease there.

5) With 8 mm holes for all bolts I could replace the blocks I needed to increase in size.

The damages on my base plate was not near the ones we can see in the pictures above (Samuel), and my boat is a 370 that has gone offshore racing. Nothing is stronger than the weakest link of the chain, and in my case I believe it’s now the base plate material that is the weakest part.

Sparcraft offered another solution, see picture below, where the bolts are replaced with stainless steel rails. For this solution you can use standard blocks with shackles. The problem on my boat is that the blocks comes too high and the sheets don’t come under the garage (bad angle).

Nickname on MyHanse: lovind
Boat name: Lovinda II
Modell: Hanse 370, 2008
Location: Kristiansand, Norway
Contact: Click here!

New drawer in saloon, EUR50 upgrade:

Drawer button lock, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813840348.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.69354c4dXNKgqp

IKEA drawer, https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/maximera-skuff-hoy-hvit-20319361/

 The existing box is not wide enough for the 60cm drawer, so some modifications and adjustments are needed when mounting the drawer runners.
 

Nickname on MyHanse: ??
Boat name: ??
Modell: Hanse ??
Location: ??
Contact: Click here!