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Impovements by other Hanse
370-owners On this side we show improvements done by other Hanse 370 owners. If you like to have your pictures shown on this page please mail them to me on marco@cdg.nu. Please also include a text/description that you want to go with the picture. As there are probably people who like to know more about what you have done I suggest that you also share your e-mail information. About file nameing: firstname_lastname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_christensen_01.jpg) alternatively myhansenickname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_01.jpg
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Nickname on
MyHanse: Silversailor Boat name: S/V Legacy Modell: 2006 Hanse 370e, hull #9 Location: South Haven, MI. USA Contact: Click here!
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 1. Starboard Lazarette, hull side: two additional shelfes was constructed, glassed in and then painted. Allows significantly better use of this large space.
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 2. Starboard Lazarette, cockpit side: a 1" x 4" piece of wood was glassed in (just below the lazarette opening) and painted. Then line holders were attached. Allows neat storage of docklines, spinnaker sheets, extra halyard, etc.
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 3. Edson Cockpit Table (closed and stored). Made of starboard. Heavy, solid and no maintenance. Easy to stores or erect. I've had teak tables in the past but wanted to avoid the maintenance.
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 4. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves closed).
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 5. Edson Cockpit Table (up with leaves open). |
 6. Drink/Binoc Holder. (See #7,8 for mounting clamps.) Also made of starboard. Not as heavily made as I would like but it does the job. I like the way the two end holders allow for a mug with a handle.
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7 & 8. Raymarine MFD (Multi Function Display). Mounted using a unique system designed by my electronics installer that allows the display to swivel about 55 degrees either left or right (to allow viewing from every helm position) and to tilt up or down. Also shows small storage area created in binnacle where Simrad multi had originally been installed.
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 9. Raymarine 7000 Autopilot Display. Port side. Also shows winch handle holder for easy reach for genoa trimmer.
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 10. Winch Handle Holder (starboard).
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 11. Simrad Wind & Multi Displays. Mounted on starboard bulkhead (see #12) to be visable to all.
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 12. Simrad Displays plus Lineholders. Starboard bulkhead. Lineholders are Beneteau product. I replace the shock cord annually since it deteriorates in the sun. I've used these for 8 years and they work well to keep lines in place and readily accessible. When sailing (after raising the main) I remove the mainsheet (black with white fleck) from the lineholder, take 4 wraps around the winch and open the main sheet clamp. In this way, the main sheet is immediately available for required adjustments. |
 13. Lineholder Buttons (close up). Starboard.
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 14. Custom Companionway Doors (closed). Screens with acrylic inserts (shown). I re-screened this year and used a heavy duty screening recommended for homes which have pets. At the beginning of every season I remove the heavy acrylic drop board that was original equipment and replace with these doors. They remain in place until I haul Legacy in October.
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 15. Custom Companion Doors (open).
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 16. Bimini. Made of the same Sunbrella like material that my sail drop was made of. Well constructed with stainless. This bimini was not made to fold. When we race I pull the pins supporting the cross bars on the right and left side, compress the frame and wrap a few bungy cords around it to hold it in place. If I did it again I would have one built which could fold.
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 17. Dodger. Non-folding. The center clear section unzipps for more airflow. Clear plastic wing inserts are available for the left and right. Also well made with stainless tubing. |
 18. Harken 46ST Classic. Added port and starboard. Needed to handle the kevlar 155 genoa that we fly under 10K. |
 19. Garhauer Adjustable genoa Blocks. Added this season. They make a significant difference especially if you race. Garhauer equipment is very well made. Heavy duty and long lasting. Not as "sophisticated" as Harken but considerably less expensive. Great customer service.
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 20. Garhauer Mainsheet Block. Added for additional purchase on the main sheet. Simple, excellent addition.
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 21. Harken traveler Blocks. Added for additional purchase on the traveler. Simple, excellent addition.
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 22. Amsteel line with Block on Backstay. Again, increased purchase. Another simple, excellent addition.
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 23. New rub rail and Harken MK IV Furler, Expandable Whisker Pole, Pole Chocks. Furler added this spring as a result of damaged forestay. Decide to upgrade furler at same time that we were replacing forestay. Excellent decision. Much less windage, easier furling. I added the rub rail about four years ago. It's a solid profile. Very hard. Comes with screw holes drilled about every 4 inches (100 mm) for easy placement and installation. Great addition. |
 24. Harken Mk IV (closeup). |
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Nickname on MyHanse: iemand Boat name: S/V Sprookje Modell: 2007 Hanse 370e, hull #193 Location: Stralsund, Germany Contact: Click here! |
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 01. Modified Calira Panel with Philippi Battery Monitor incl. Tank Monitor
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 02. HA Genoa tracks
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 03. starboard locker modified to additional cabin (dual usage) |
 04. 12" Simrad NX45 Plotter on modified steering column and Composit 150cm Wheel |
 05. Coffee Bar
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 06. Coffee Bar
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 07. Harken Underdeck Furler with new anchor arm also for gennaker / Code 0 |
 08. Instruments above companion way |
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Nickname on MyHanse: Fendant Boat name: Gioia IV Modell: Hanse 345 Location: Lake Constance (Bodensee), Germany Contact: Click here! |
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01. Protection for the Navigation Seat. It is simple hood over the
upholstery
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02.
Extension of the Würth Panel for a remote Charger controller and a
Battery controller. |
 03. Organizing the anchor locker. It is a simple closed cell non water absorbent PVC sheet (Forex ), with a ring holder for the spare gas bottle. This prevents dock lines or the anchor buoy to fall into the chain storage. |
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Nickname on MyHanse: H370-Snigelhus Boat name: Snigelhus Modell: Hanse 370 Location: Hamburg, Germany Contact: Click here! |
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The
switch panel and the radio were unfavorably installed on a solid plate
of the boats electrical section. To reach the electrical connections you
had to remove entirely both doors and hinges of the electrical section.
Only then the plate could be removed. From the following photographs it will be clear that a new installed plate is easy to open due to a snap mechanism. By the new and better arrangement there is more space for new installations. The electrical connections can be reached quickly and trouble-free. |
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 01. Lock of new plate
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 02. Open plate looking inwards |
 03. Final state with new arrangement |
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Nickname on MyHanse: SamsonII |
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I have copied the backstay setup presented by Marco on this excellent page. I took som pictuers of the process. First I made a dummy rig to make all the measurements. I got the numbers from Marco, but wanted to do an extra check. I did som testing on the boat of the setup to see how much movement the upper block would have. Result was approx. 120 mm. |
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 01. Max and min tension marked at the upper bloc kon the rig. |
 02. I pulled max to see how much movement the setup would give me.
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 03. The rig in my garden! (cheap rope used for testing)
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 04. Minimum tension |
 05. Maximum tension
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The splicing of the block-end of the ropes were done at home. The other ends in the boat. I used a brummel lock splice. I followed the instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WW7Qvg3VjI I quickly realized that dyneema is hard to cut. So I have now purchased this fine tool from D-Splicer: https://d-splicer.com/d-16-scissors-2/ |
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 01. Ready for splicing the dyneema. |
 02. Splicing the Harken Carbo block. |
 03. Inserting the tail. I used a piece of wood to mark measurements for convenience. |
 04. Finished! |
 05. All blocks spliced |
 06. Installed on the boat. |
 07. I used 8 mm toggels to fix the long ropes, and a doubble rope for the trippel block with cam. The toggles was not in place when I took the picture – I used a knot to fix things in place for a quick test.
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 08. The 6:1 purchase with red 6mm dyneema |
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Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty |
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 01. The Bow thruster was fitted on the boat when it was bought so we do not have much information about it. As you can see its a tunnel and not a "drop-down" bow thruster. |
 02. The brand is Vetus and the model is a 60kp thruster. Similar as this one at Erlanddsons Brygga in Sweden http://www.erlandsonsbrygga.se/BOGPROPELLER_VETUS_4_2HK,_55KP?id=07042
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Nickname on MyHanse: CaraMia |
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 01. Since we had problems with the water on the toilet floor which flowed from the drain rather than to it when we had a shower, I spackled the floor to get a slope against the drain and put on a Flexiteek-carpet. I started to pour water on the floor to find the right levels and see how much spackle it would take. With 6 liters of water the level was horizontal so with 7 liters of spackle I got some slope. Then I grinded the floor with sandpaper and washed it with acetone. After that I made the 2 long wooden wedges to use as templates for the spackle. I laid the wedges as far apart as possible and spackled the area between the wedges. When the spackle had stiffened, I removed the wedges and filled the gutters that remained. On the advice of Nils Malmgren AB I used their epoxyspackle NM Elastic 705. Then I made a paper template that I gave to Marindesign AB, who manufactured the Flexiteek-carpet. Now it just remains to glue it.
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 02. After the gluing of the carpet. |
 03. New Hanse original Sprayhood and cockpit cover. Now we have sewed in more and larger windows and at the same time had them washed, impregnated and sewn over all seams. Now it is very brightly and nice in the cockpit and hopefully we can now keep the Sprayhood and cockpit cover for a number of years.
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 04. I have always been annoyed with the external rail bases for the cockpit cover and have finally replaced them with internal bases. |
