Impovements by other Hanse
370-owners
On this side we show
improvements done by other Hanse 370 owners. If you like to have your
pictures shown on this page please mail them to me on
marco@cdg.nu. Please also include a
text/description that you want to go with the picture. As there are
probably people who like to know more about what you have done I suggest
that you also share your e-mail information.
About file nameing: firstname_lastname_picturenumber.jpg
(marco_christensen_01.jpg) alternatively
myhansenickname_picturenumber.jpg (marco_01.jpg
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Nickname on
MyHanse: Silversailor
Boat name: S/V Legacy
Modell: 2006 Hanse 370e, hull #9
Location: South Haven, MI. USA
Contact:
Click here! |

1. Starboard Lazarette,
hull side: two additional shelfes was constructed, glassed in and then
painted. Allows significantly better use of this large space.
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2. Starboard Lazarette,
cockpit side: a 1" x 4" piece of wood was glassed in (just
below the lazarette opening) and painted. Then line holders were attached. Allows neat storage of docklines, spinnaker sheets, extra halyard, etc. |

3. Edson Cockpit Table
(closed and stored). Made of starboard. Heavy, solid and no
maintenance. Easy to stores or erect. I've had teak tables in the past
but wanted to avoid the maintenance. |

4. Edson Cockpit Table
(up with leaves closed).
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5. Edson Cockpit Table
(up with leaves open).
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6. Drink/Binoc Holder.
(See #7,8 for mounting clamps.) Also made of starboard. Not as heavily
made as I would like but it does the job. I like the way the two end
holders allow for a mug with a handle.
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7 & 8. Raymarine MFD
(Multi Function Display). Mounted using a unique system designed by my
electronics installer that allows the display to swivel about 55 degrees
either left or right (to allow viewing from every helm position) and to
tilt up or down. Also shows small storage area created in binnacle where
Simrad multi had originally been installed. |

9. Raymarine 7000
Autopilot Display.Port side. Also shows winch handle holder for easy
reach for genoa trimmer. |

10.Winch Handle Holder
(starboard). |

11. Simrad Wind & Multi
Displays. Mounted on starboard bulkhead (see #12) to be visable to all. |

12. Simrad Displays plus
Line holders. Starboard bulkhead. Line holders are Beneteau product. I
replace the shock cord annually since it deteriorates in the sun. I've
used these for 8 years and they work well to keep lines in place and
readily accessible. When sailing (after raising the main) I remove the
mainsheet (black with white fleck) from the line holder, take 4 wraps
around the winch and open the main sheet clamp. In this way, the main
sheet is immediately available for required adjustments.
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13. Line holder Buttons
(close up). Starboard.
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14. Custom Companionway
Doors (closed). Screens with acrylic inserts (shown). I re-screened
this year and used a heavy duty screening recommended for homes which
have pets. At the beginning of every season I remove the heavy acrylic
drop board that was original equipment and replace with these doors.
They remain in place until I haul Legacy in October. |

15. Custom Companion Doors
(open).
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16. Bimini. Made of the
same Sunbrella like material that my sail drop was made of. Well
constructed with stainless. This bimini was not made to fold. When we
race I pull the pins supporting the cross bars on the right and left
side, compress the frame and wrap a few bungy cords around it to hold it
in place. If I did it again I would have one built which could fold. |

17. Dodger. Non-folding.
The center clear section unzips for more airflow. Clear plastic wing
inserts are available for the left and right. Also well made with
stainless tubing. |

18. Harken 46ST Classic.
Added port and starboard. Needed to handle the kevlar 155 genoa that we
fly under 10K. |

19. Garhauer Adjustable
genoa Blocks. Added this season. They make a significant difference
especially if you race. Garhauer equipment is very well made. Heavy
duty and long lasting. Not as "sophisticated" as Harken but
considerably less expensive. Great customer service. |

20. Garhauer Mainsheet
Block. Added for additional purchase on the main sheet. Simple,
excellent addition. |

21. Harken traveler
Blocks. Added for additional purchase on the traveler. Simple,
excellent addition. |

22. Amsteel line with
Block on Backstay. Again, increased purchase. Another simple,
excellent addition.
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23. New rub rail and Harken MK IV Furler, Expandable Whisker Pole, Pole
Chocks. Furler added this spring as a result of damaged forestay.
Decide to upgrade furler at same time that we were replacing forestay.
Excellent
decision. Much less windage, easier furling.
I added
the rub rail about four years ago. It's a solid profile. Very hard.
Comes with screw holes drilled about every 4 inches (100 mm) for easy
placement and installation. Great addition. |

24. Harken Mk IV (closeup). |
Nickname on MyHanse: iemand
Boat name: S/V Sprookje
Modell: 2007 Hanse 370e, hull #193
Location: Stralsund, Germany
Contact:
Click here! |

01.
Modified Calira Panel with Philippi Battery Monitor incl. Tank Monitor |

02. HA
Genoa tracks |

03.
Starboard locker modified to additional cabin (dual usage) |

04. 12"
Simrad NX45 Plotter on modified steering column and Composit 150cm Wheel |
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05.
Coffee Bar |

06.
Coffee Bar |

07.
Harken under deck Furler with new anchor arm also for gennaker / Code 0 |

08.
Instruments above companion way |
Nickname on MyHanse: Fendant
Boat name: Gioia IV
Modell: Hanse 345
Location: Lake Constance (Bodensee), Germany
Contact:
Click here! |

01. Protection for the Navigation Seat. It is simple hood over the
upholstery |

02.
Extension of the Würth Panel for a remote Charger controller and a
Battery controller.
I have also added conventional tank gauges as the ones used for the
Würth panel are crap |

03.
Organizing the anchor locker. It is a simple closed cell non water
absorbent PVC sheet (Forex ), with a ring holder for the spare gas
bottle. This prevents dock lines or the anchor buoy to fall into the
chain storage. |
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Nickname on MyHanse: H370-Snigelhus
Boat name: Snigelhus
Modell: Hanse 370
Location: Hamburg, Germany
Contact:
Click here! |
The
switch panel and the radio were unfavorably installed on a solid plate
of the boats electrical section. To reach the electrical connections you
had to remove entirely both doors and hinges of the electrical section.
Only then the plate could be removed.
From the following photographs it will be clear that a new installed
plate is easy to open due to a snap mechanism.
By the new and better arrangement there is more space for new
installations. The electrical connections can be reached quickly and
trouble-free. |

01.
Lock of new plate |

02.
Open plate looking inwards |

03.
Final state with new arrangement |
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Nickname on MyHanse: SamsonII
Boat name: SamsonII
Modell: Hanse 370e 2006 #41
Location: Nærsnes, Norway
Contact:
Click here! |
I
have copied the backstay setup presented by Marco on this excellent
page. I took som pictuers of the process. First I made a dummy rig to
make all the measurements. I got the numbers from Marco, but wanted to
do an extra check. I did som testing on the boat of the setup to see
how much movement the upper block would have. Result was approx. 120 mm. |

01.
Max and min tension marked at the upper bloc kon the rig. |

02.
I pulled max to see how much movement the setup would give me. |

03.
The rig in my garden! (cheap rope used for testing) |

04.
Minimum tension |

05.
Maximum tension |
The
splicing of the block-end of the ropes were done at home. The other ends
in the boat. I used a brummel lock splice. I followed the
instructions here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WW7Qvg3VjI I quickly realized that
dyneema is hard to cut. So I have now purchased this fine tool from
D-Splicer:
https://d-splicer.com/d-16-scissors-2/ |

01.
Ready for splicing the dyneema. |

02.
Splicing the Harken Carbo block. |

03.
Inserting the tail. I used a piece of wood to mark measurements for
convenience. |

04.
Finished! |

05.
All blocks spliced |

06.
Installed on the boat. |

07.
I used 8 mm toggels to fix the long ropes, and a doubble rope for the
trippel block with cam. The toggles was not in place when I took the
picture – I used a knot to fix things in place for a quick test. |

08.
The 6:1 purchase with red 6mm dyneema |
Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty
Boat name: Zanzibar
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Contact:
Click here! |

01.
The Bow thruster was fitted on the boat when it was bought so we do not
have much information about it. As you can see its a tunnel and not a
"drop-down" bow thruster. |

02.
The brand is Vetus and the model is a 60kp thruster. Similar as this one
at Erlanddsons Brygga in Sweden
http://www.erlandsonsbrygga.se/BOGPROPELLER_VETUS_4_2HK,_55KP?id=07042
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Nickname on MyHanse: CaraMia
Boat name: Cara Mia
Modell: Hanse 370
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
Contact:
Click here! |

01.
Since we had problems with the water on the toilet floor which flowed
from the drain rather than to it when we had a shower, I spackled the
floor to get a slope against the drain and put on a Flexiteek-carpet.
I
started to pour water on the floor to find the right levels and see how
much spackle it would take. With 6 liters of water the level was
horizontal so with 7 liters of spackle I got some slope.
Then
I grinded the floor with sandpaper and washed it with acetone. After
that I made the 2 long wooden wedges to use as templates for the
spackle. I laid the wedges as far apart as possible and spackled the
area between the wedges. When the spackle had stiffened, I removed the
wedges and filled the gutters that remained.
On
the advice of Nils Malmgren AB I used their epoxyspackle NM Elastic 705.
Then I made a paper template that I gave to Marindesign AB, who
manufactured the Flexiteek-carpet. Now it just remains to glue it.
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02.
After the gluing of the carpet. |

03. New Hanse original Sprayhood and cockpit cover.
Now we have sewed in more and larger windows and at the same time had
them washed, impregnated and sewn over all seams. Now it is very
brightly and nice in the cockpit and hopefully we can now keep the
Sprayhood and cockpit cover for a number of years. |

04. I
have always been annoyed with the external rail bases for the cockpit
cover and have finally replaced them with internal bases. |
Nickname on MyHanse: Lefty
Boat name: Bäsk
Modell: Hanse 370e
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Contact:
Click here! |
We like to show you pictures
of improvements we made on our 370e, formerly known as S/Y
Hutschlange,
now named as S/Y BÄSK.
S/Y Hutschlange was a racer /
cruiser with an emphasis on racer. Our goal was from the beginning to
mostly family sailing so we had a few things to-do on the list. The
first thing we did was to have a RMC Swingthruster fitted and a bathing
platform/cassette ladder á la S/Y Älva. We have never regretted these
installations |

In In theses two picture you
can see that we had three teak made for the aft deck and the anchor arm
was extended to be able to turn all the way up to the push pit. It then
had to be reinforced and provided with support legs so that the pull can
be pulled off when it is sitting fairly hard. |

You take what you find. Using various materials to put
some weight on the glued teak pieces on the aft deck, se also previous
picture for the result.
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When we are a quite a few people onboard, we needed a
real big cockpit table. We
drew plans for one and had a carpentry company build it. The brackets in
the pedestal come from Hjertmans and the leg from Ikea.
Pro: Nice, plenty of space, just fits in the port cabin.
Con: Quite heavy |

The table fully open |

The tachometer started early to often omit display. I got
Albin Motor to get a new one, Italian, which Yanmar guaranteed. The old
one had counted 628 hours, so I made a small pulse generator that had to
run 628 hours connected to the new one, so we got the right display for
the future. |

We also took the opportunity to replace the plastic front
on the engine panel - looks like new! |

In 2015 we decided to change all outer textiles and
ordered from Kapell & Annat everything in dark, dark blue color. We
order a new sprayhood, cockpit tent, lazybag (in one piece, without
loose mast part) and a pedestal cap.
|

After an involuntary gybe where I almost ripped my arm
off we decided to install a boom break. |

We talked about my problem with installing 230V to the front cabin. The
picture shows what it looks like behind the port wardrobe in the front
cabin.
There are many screws to remove, do not forget the hinges, but then you
can pull out the entire closet and put in the bin. Note that the
"ceiling" remains - it is not part of the closet. |

Ventilation of the refrigeration compressor is a
recurring topic on myhanse.com. I have, so far, only put grilles in the
cupboard and in the door. |

Would think that there will be fan-driven ventilation
before the next season, and possibly new supply cables (just read about
someone who got a voltage drop due to irritated cables) with good area. |

We took the opportunity to replace the Simrad DS34 with a B&G Vulcan 9
and then we needed to widen the pedestal boat a bit to fit a standard
Navpod. The result was really good.
We also replaced the external GPS antenna with a B&G ZT 100 that
contains both a GPS receiver and a compass, so we have good redundancy
there now.
One problem remains:
The old log sensor worked poorly and I failed to get an equivalent that
worked. We ended up buying an Airmar sensor with NMEA 2000 connection. Now it turns out that some instruments refuse to read speed from this
sensor, despite several types of reset. If I do not succeed during the
season, I may have to replace some IS12 instruments with B&G Triton. |

Last summer (2009) we had a grounding which was largely
due to poor seamanship - I trusted the plotter when I navigated fine
among groats, and then the fix point disappeared! It had happened quite
often so I should not have been exposed to this risk. Anyway, we
narrowed at a maximum of 3 knots but at a 45 degree angle when I steered
away from the ground (that I almost managed to do).
No leakage and no visible damage inside. We lifted and inspected and saw
that it was mainly the joint between steel and lead that was beaten. |

Svedea and Orust Yacht Service have done a good job that
ended with a brand new lead keel. We took the opportunity to install a Keel Pro
as extra security in the future. |

The previous owner of my boat did some
good offshore racing and faced a lot of problems with different blocks
that didn’t withstand the forces. This included the mast base blocks.
Those were all replaced with Harken blocks, except for the main halyard
where no big block with 6 mm pin could be found. He took a Lewmar block
that could fit with some spacers. This “solution” is described in old
threads of MyHanse Forum. |

I wanted to get rid of that weak
Lewmar block and also upgrade some other mast base blocks to bigger
ones. To do that I needed 8 mm pins to fit. In order to get 8 mm holes I
needed bigger bolts, 14 mm instead of 12 mm. |

What I did was:
1) I removed the mast base plate. On my boat there are nuts on the other
side of the 6 machine screws, so I had to remove the inner ceiling. Be
careful when you lever the base plate. The Sikaflex makes it sit very
tight and you need quite some force to get it lose.
2) I drilled all the bolt holes up to 14 mm, plus some
margin.
3) I
manufactured new 14 mm bolts with 8 mm hole.
4) When I re-attached the base plate I secured that no
Sikaflex touched the lower part of the bolts – I actually put some
grease there.
5) With 8 mm holes for all bolts I could replace the
blocks I needed to increase in size. |
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The damages on my base plate was
not near the ones we can see in the pictures above (Samuel), and my boat
is a 370 that has gone offshore racing. Nothing is stronger than the
weakest link of the chain, and in my case I believe it’s now the base
plate material that is the weakest part. |

Sparcraft offered another solution,
see picture below, where the bolts are replaced with stainless steel
rails. For this solution you can use standard blocks with shackles. The
problem on my boat is that the blocks comes too high and the sheets
don’t come under the garage (bad angle). |
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Nickname on MyHanse: lovind
Boat name: Lovinda II
Modell: Hanse 370, 2008
Location: Kristiansand, Norway
Contact:
Click here! |
New
drawer in saloon, EUR50 upgrade:
Drawer
button lock, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32813840348.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.69354c4dXNKgqp
IKEA
drawer, https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/maximera-skuff-hoy-hvit-20319361/
The
existing box is not wide enough for the 60cm drawer, so some
modifications and adjustments are needed when mounting the drawer
runners.
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Nickname on MyHanse: ??
Boat name: ??
Modell: Hanse ??
Location: ??
Contact:
Click here! |
Would you like to present your improvements here? Please
het in contact with me on marco@cdg.nu |
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